The Mantua Maker Corset Pattern for 1865-1880
"The Underside of the 1860's & 1870's"
Our number 00-pattern-33
The Mantua Maker Patterns are well drafted but the instructions are not as thorough as a novice corset maker might need. The instructions do include a lot of interesting information. I suggest you take a high-lighter and mark the information you need and NOT the information that's simply interesting. That way it will be easier to find the information when you need it.
Note: the photo shows the corset made up as instructed. The suggested busk length was 12" – we used a 13" busk and a 14" one would have fit better. Since the busk is too short you can see pulling at the top and bottom.
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I usually recommend placing the busk as close to the top of the corset binding as possible if the busk you have is to short. Then add a corset hoop below the busk. But, you could to resolve the pulling problem that resulted from a too short busk you could also add two bones and slid one behind each busk half. Then add a corset hook and corset eye at both the top and bottom to close the front more neatly.
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This sample was made by Anna Baines and she opted to use cream bzy floral coutil as the outer layer and cream fine cotton as a lining. She chose a gold colour busk and gold/brass grommets to coordinate with the cream until. She finished the top and bottom edges with wide cream satin ribbon and laced the back the same color ribbon in a narrower width. She used a selection of both spring steel and spiral bones. The bones are encased in white bone casing tape, in some cases she used 3/4" wide tape and stitched down the middle to allow two bones next to each other. The result is a lightweight corset that still creates shape and offers support.
This is a nice corset and Anna's turned out really well but a novice stitcher might find the hip and bust gores a challenge.
Qty |
Description |
Item # |
Link to Catalog |
1 |
Corset pattern |
00-pattern-33 |
|
.7m |
Coutil, cream bzy floral |
74-1158-03 |
|
.7m |
Cotton sheeting as lining |
Not sold by Farthingales |
|
1 |
13" long gold colour busk (pattern called for 12" bus but a 14" busk would have fit) |
91-8552G-13 |
|
1.8m |
Bone casing tape 3/4" white (sewn down the middle to create side by side channels for 2 bones) |
34-7234-01 |
|
2m |
Bone casing ½" wide white |
34-7212-01 |
|
2 |
Spring steel bones 22cm (CF) |
50-8206-22 |
|
2 |
Spring steel bones 33cm |
50-8206-33 |
|
4 |
Spiral steel bones 11 inch |
47-8000-11 |
|
2 |
Spiral steel bones 11.5 inches |
47-8000-11.5 |
|
2 |
Spiral steel bones 12 inches |
47-8000-12 |
|
2 |
Spring steel bones 14cm (15 cm would have fit better but we don't stock them) |
50-8206-14 |
|
2 |
Spring steel bones 10cm (12cm would have fit better but we don't stock them) |
50-8206-10 |
|
2 |
Spring steel bones 33cm |
50-8206-33 |
|
30 |
Size 00 grommets brass |
60-8820-kit |
|
7m |
6mm (1/4") Double faced satin ribbon |
Not sold by Farthingales |
|
4m |
1" (2.54 cm) wide soft satin ribbon for binding |
Not sold by Farthingales |
|
2 |
11mm (1/2") wide bone – we slide these behind the busk since the bust was not long enough to support the full length of the front edge. |
50-8511-37 |
|
2 |
Corset hooks and corset eyes to complete the center front since the busk was not quite long enough |
91-7050-NH 91-7050-NE |
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