Coutil/Corseting

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Coutil is a fabric that has been designed specifically for building corsets. It is high in cotton content, tightly woven to inhibit penetration of bones/stays and is not inclined to stretch. It has a smooth finish and is comfortable when worn close to the skin though the wearing of a chemise is always recommended. Coutil comes in plain, satin or brocade and we stock primarily black, white and flesh; the white is dyeable.

Coutil can be soft, stiff or medium and this characteristic is determined by the "Finishing Process". This is a starching porcess that the fabric goes through to change the feel of the fabric. Unfinished coutil is soft and easily dyed, the more starch the stiffer the coutil and the more likely it is to change after washing and dye unevenly. Finishing processors in the USA and in the UK are dwindling in numbers and the quality of finishes available is also deteriorating. The fabric is still the same quality of weave and
fiber, it's just the starched finish that is no longer what it was. This situation leads to inconsistant finishes from bolt to bolt of fabric we bring in. If the finish is inadequate we send the good back but we can only do this so often and we have had to try and be more flexible in our expectations inorder to have stock available. It is important that the stiffness of the coutil you order today may not be the same as a piece you have from a year ago.

Please note that we believe our new 74-1142-90 is of superior quality for it's stiff finish. It is identical fiber and weave to 74-1141-90 but has had a heavier starched finish applied.

SEE ALSO OUR ARTICLE ON CORSET BUILDING

SEE ALSO OUR CORSET PATTERN AND KITS

 

NEW Superior European coutil in several qualities, all 56” wide
COMING SOON - preorder NOW for shipment mid to late July

NEW Basic Coutils

74-1130-20 beige
Cotton viscose blend diamond within a diamond pattern coutil

74-1140-01 White
74-1140-20 Beige
74-1140-90 Black
100% cotton fine herringbone, great basic coutil

74-1153-20 Beige
Cotton Viscose blend matte satin - great basic coutil

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NEW Spot Coutils

74-1155-01 White
74-1155-90 Black
Cotton Viscose Spot Coutil

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NEW Floral Coutils

74-1148-01 White
74-1148-20 Beige*
74-1148-90 Black
Cotton viscose blend Rose patterned Brocade coutil

74-1158-01 White
74-1158-03 Cream
74-1158-20 Beige*
74-1158-90 Black
Viscose cotton blend Busy Floral brocade coutil

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(The floral coutils that were previously available are now sold out.)

*NOT YET available, please check back in November.


 

Semi-stiff coutil, 100% cotton

74-1141-01 white NEW QUALITY - Soft
74-1141-20 flesh
74-1141-90 black NEW QUALITY - Soft

Herringbone coutil are all approximately 60" wide. The herringbone weave is a bit wider than our previous quality each row of twill being aproximately 3/16" (5mm) wide. This herringbone coutil is durable and very dense without being bulky and is an excellent choice for corsets which will be worn often. It is only available in black and white but could be dyed. NOTE: the "soft" and the "stiff" are the same fabric! BUT the stiff has a starched finish which makes it more difficult to work with but results in incredible shape and hold. Do not wash the stiff before using if you want maximum effect.

 

Satin coutil, cotton/viscose

74-1150-01 white, 40" wide
74-1150-90 black, 54" wide
Tightly woven satin with a slightly brushed matte wrong side. Laundering and dying softens it up a lot. Prior to laundering it is quite stiff.

 

Brocade coutil, cotton/viscose

74-1144-01 white
74-1144-90 black
55" wide a small floral and berry brocade which dyes well. Floral contrast becomes stronger with dyeing as viscose fibres shine.

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