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The Building of an Elizabethan Wired Ruff (III)

The next step is to bind the wires to each other at the taped connections. This is done with thread in the same colour as the wire. We have used contrasting thread on the samples below to clearly illustrate the details. The thread used should be polyester as it is strong yet not bulky. There are two types of connections, overlapped and crisscrossed.

The overlapped connection is used when you need to continue a straight line and the crisscrossed connection is used when you have two wires crossing at an angle. To connect wires using the “overlap method” the wires need to overlap each other by at least 1" (2.5 cm). Hold them in place and wrap them with thread, be sure the thread ends have been tied off, see photo below. You will bind the two front extensions this way as well in order to make the three wires into one unit. When two wires cross you need to bind the connection by creating an “X” over the intersection, see the illustration below right.

Overlap join method	Crissross join method

When all the connections have been bound cover each type of join with a good layer of glue (this includes the two front ends), we have used “Jewel Glue” by Delta as it dries clear and is made for jewels, beads etc. so should hold the steel. (Balsa model cement works well if “Jewel Glue” is not available.) Let the glue dry completely. Place the ruff back on the garment and check the shape. Make any adjustments now before the ruff gets covered with fabric. (Click images to enlarge.)

The fabric you choose should be stable and not inclined to stretch but it needs to have some give on the bias. Organza is a good choice and gives the sheer look desired in a traditional ruff.

Lay the ruff on your fabric so that the straight grain is parallel with the center- line of your ruff, this will place the curved neck edge on the bias and will limit the amount of wrinkles you will get at the neck in this area. If wrinkles do occur in this area do not fight them, work them into neat tucks.

	Begin to pin the organza into place lightly around the perimeter, then trim the organza and pin it more accurately around the neck edge. You may have an inch deep seam allowance or more; it will eventually be trimmed away.
	Pin all edges into place with a minimum of 1" (2.5cm) seam allowance. Hand stitch closely along the wire edges on the inside of the wire, keeping the fabric taut. Thread should match the fabric and stitches should be small and neat to keep them as invisible as possible.
	Once all the stitching is complete trim the seam allowance to about 1/8" (3mm), be very careful not to cut the fabric! Apply a generous but tidy amount of glue over all seams; take particular care at corners. Let the glue dry completely. Click on images to enlarge.

All that is left now is adding two tabs to the back and decorating.

		The tabs for the back are used to secure the back of the ruff to the garment. Take two pieces of twill tape, 2 ½" (6.5mm) in length and fold each in half to form a loop. Hand stitch the male side of a snap onto each loop. Hand stitch each loop onto the bottom edge of the ruff at equal distances from center back. The tab will be slipped down inside the garment so the snap needs to face the inside of the back of the garment. Stitching the raw edges to the ruff. Place the ruff on
the garment and mark the placement for the female side of the snap on the garment. Stitch the female side of the snap on the inside of the garment where marked. By sewing the male snap to the tabs, the dress can be worn comfortably without the ruff as no snap point will be pressing into the body.

Your ruff is now ready to wear or decorate. (Click on images to enlarge.)

Front	Side	Back

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